Front or Top Loading Bobbin

Front Loading.

This is where the bobbin case has to be removed from the machine so the bobbin can be loaded into it. Found mostly in the lower price bracket, this mechanism has been around for years. Also known as a CB (central bobbin) machine, the hook oscillates back and forth around the bobbin case picking up the thread and forming the stitch. Although not as refined as the top loader, kept lubricated and free of lint and it will give little trouble. (go for all metal race & hook, still the best system,we think)

Top Loading

Unlike the front loading design, the bobbin case remains in place for threading and only has to be removed for cleaning. This system is easier to use as the bobbin drops in from the top and if fitted with a see thru plate, the amount of thread left on the bobbin can be easily seen. Other advantages are because the hook rotates rather than oscillates the machine is quieter running, causes less vibration and less likely to jam.

Some manufacturers use a combination of the two and produce an industrial type system which is front loading but rotary. This mechanism has similar qualities to the top loading mechanism.

 Flat Bed / Free Arm

Today, it will be difficult to buy a machine without this facility. An attachment can be removed from the machine converting it from a flat bed to free arm. The free arm can be used for any difficult to sew areas but especially trouser hems, etc.

Separate Length / Width Controls

Some machines, mainly in the lower price bracket will not have adjustable length AND width controls. These are One Dial machines (where the width and length are preset for all patterns). with 3 or 4 settings for zig zag & straight stitches

Adjustable foot pressure

Again, this is more or less standard on mid range machines and above. This facility is a must when sewing bulky materials (such as fleece) which can be difficult for the machine to feed evenly. The presser foot pressure can be increased making the feed dog grip the material and sew perfect even stitches. The pressure can be reduced when sewing delicate materials such as silk which may easily mark.

Some machines have "automatic" foot pressure, the idea being the pressure adjusts for the thickness of material placed under the foot.

 Buttonholes

Nearly all machines have an automatic buttonhole facility. 4 step buttonholes, where the user turns a dial to sew each side of the buttonhole are mostly on the entry models. The 1 step buttonhole is by far the easiest and a must for users who regularly sew buttonholes. The button is loaded into the buttonhole foot and the machine will sew the 4 sides of the buttonhole in 1 step to match the size of the button.

Stretch Stitches

Special stitches, available on all except the most basic where the machine sews backwards as well as forwards to achieve various stitch patterns. Handy not only when sewing stretch fabrics but also for when reinforcing seams, overlocking or when decorative stitching is required.

Electronic Speed Limiter

This refers to an adjustable slide which sets the maximum speed that the machine will sew with the foot control fully depressed. Very handy when quilting or sewing around curves, corners, etc. Machines with this adjustment also have the Needle Up / Down feature (See Below).

AC and DC motors

AC motors are usually found on basic to mid range machines. DC motors are used in computerised machines or mechanical machines which have electronic speed control.

DC motors have the advantage of being more controllable and offer better needle penetration at slower speeds.

Needle Up / Down

This button lowers the needle into the material so you don`t have to turn the balance wheel.

Handy for pivoting around corners, etc.

When the machine stops, the last stitch will have been completed and the needle will always stop in the up position.

on some machines you can select the needle to stop in the down or the up position (Bernina)

Auto Lock Seam Stitch

Found on computerised machines, this feature locks the stitch by automatically reversing at the start of the seam.

Stitch Memory

Again found on computerised machines, this enables the user to string patterns together.

Information Window

This is a guide built into the machine which recommends which presser foot, tension, stitch width and stitch length to use for that particular stitch. Like having the instruction book in front of you at all times. Mostly found on computerised machines but also on mechanical machines like the Janome Décor Excel II 5024.

Needle Threader

Built in needle threaders are helpful but certainly not essential. A small hook locates behind the needle and through the eye. The thread is then placed into the hook and is taken through the eye as the hook is withdrawn.

Automatic tension

Unless computer controlled, I feel this facility is over rated as modern tension units give very few problems. We recommend leaving the tension dial midway, around 4 or 5 (on a 0 to 10 scale). Providing the same thickness of thread is used both top and bottom, the tension dial should rarely need adjusting. Dont forget to always raise the presser foot lifter to its highest position, (thus releasing the tension discs) before threading the top thread, hold on to the cotton reel with your right hand & thread up using your left hand pulling the thread tight into the tension discs

Drop Feed

handy for users who do free hand embroidery or darning. If the machine does not have this facility then it will have a plate to cover the feed. use with a hopper/darning presser foot